The Pivot has become a regular tool in my guiding and climbing. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. Top quality, great selection and expert advice. With similar operation to the more common Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso, the Pivot offers controlled, smooth lowering of your partner. Excellent, light-weight, guide mode functions well. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. It's an improvement over a tried a true device that should see more popularity. However, I've been encouraging climbers who plan to use it in guide mode to give it a try. Black Diamond Vision MIPS Helmet: Head protection that's as light and effective as ever, Dragon Alliance Flash LL Ion sunglasses: High quality with a big, bold style, Scarpa Ribelle HD: Boots that can keep up in the mountains, The Beal Opera: An 8.5mm rope that is as strong and waterproof as it is light. Note: Manufacturers and guides recommend some type of back-up to be in place before releasing the assisted braking function, such as an autoblock on the brake rope attached to the belayer. Mike has been guiding and instructing for 23 years throughout the U.S. and internationally. I bought a Pivot about six months ago, the first time I noticed the new device, because its advantages seemed mechanically obvious after half a lifetime of guiding with every evolving design of "self-locking" — OK, "assisted braking," with a tip of the helmet to conservative language — belay devices going all the way back to the Gigi, which changed my guiding style forever and for the better. Great product. Providing smooth rope control and a secure and confident catch, the Pivot Belay Device from DMM is a revolutionary device which uses a pivot solution to ensure rope release with less force and gain greater control when lowering. That means tie off the rope with a munter and be sure to tie off the second that you don't want to lower in case have two seconds and you end up lowering both. Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations, Select the department you want to search in, Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2016. Perfect for alpine, winter and multi-pitch trad climbs.5031290208703 Learn: About Us Policies Reviews Blog How To. The BestReviews editorial team researches hundreds of products based on consumer reviews, brand quality, and value. Meticulously researched and developed to provide optimum performance both belaying from the harness, and direct from the anchor. Great belay device. Find great deals on premium clothing and gear from DMM. The Pivot is a really nice piece of gear DMM has made. Start about 5:30 to see the anchor set up and how the “pivot” release works. The DMM Pivot is a uniquely functional belay device that offers guide mode belaying options and is compatible with a wide range of climbing ropes.. My experience totally agrees with yours. The Pivot clearly advances the state of the art of one of the most valuable guiding tools ever. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. Guide plates have traditionally been difficult to operate when lowering seconds. Other examples of this type of belay device include the Petzl Reverso 4, Black Diamond ATC Guide, Cassin Piu 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, Kong Gigi, Mammut Smart, Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay, and the CAMP Ovo. The GiGi is a major struggle to release, and then it lets go all at once. The DMM Pivot is an assisted-braking belay device that works well for top-belaying a climber directly from the anchor, as shown here. Love the DMM pivot for belaying from above!! is an AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide living in Estes Park, Colorado. The Pivot belay device delivers confident belaying and effective stopping power whether used in guide mode, or belaying from the waist. The ropes run upward a bit easier than any of the devices except the Kong GiGi, but it doesn't have the worry about the rope twisting around and releasing itself that requires a special effort when the GiGi is used with a single second. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. Shop DMM Pivot | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot + Free Shipping over $49. Prime members enjoy FREE Delivery and exclusive access to music, movies, TV shows, original audio series, and Kindle books. You can release the Pivot with just your fingers unless the second's full weight is hanging on the rope, but if you use your nut tool you will have very smooth control in any case. In common-speak, we are talking about "auto-locking" or "self-locking" plate devices such as the DMM Pivot. [Photo] Peter Braam. With all of that said, rope pinch-and-twist can happen with surprising ease on the ATC Guide and the flat plaquettes compared to the Pivot, simply due to the difference in the width of the channels. Features Suitable for 7.3 - 11mm ropes, it's optimized for 8mm - 10.5mm ropes. Reviewed in the United States on August 20, 2020, Pivot is sweet and Biner hole for leverage is more, Reviewed in the United States on November 8, 2019. Shop DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set | Be The First To Review DMM Pivot/Phantom HMS Set + Free Shipping over $49. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. We then choose a shorter list for in-depth research and testing before finalizing our top picks. A combination of design features allows for good control and a smooth lower. Because I have a quiver of belay devices, I have the privilege to choose the right device for my day of climbing. For most weekend warriors multipitch climbing in a team of two, this is not a concern. The DMM Pivot is a better mouse trap and advances the state of the art. Some devices simply locked up and did not lower at all. See the American Alpine Club's Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2016, Fall on Rock: Lowering Error, P. 63. This is a great feature when toprope or lead belaying in normal plaquette style. I practiced releasing the brake using carabiners, nut tools, and redirected slings with one and two climbers at a time, and lowering climbers full pitch lengths. The DMM Belay Master 2 is one of six belay-specific lockers that we've tested. When weighted, the climber's end pinches the brake-end and keeps the climber from falling. After viewing product detail pages, look here to find an easy way to navigate back to pages you are interested in. Shop for DMM at REI. I'm glad to see its use trickling down to other lead climbers. I have found that the Pivot works OK even with the 7.2 mm Ice Floss, though it is slightly thinner than the Pivot's recommended lower range of 7.3 mm diameter. You clearly described the guide-belay function (not easy) and the relative qualities of every device on the market. The GiGi … This page works best with JavaScript. Mike Lewis guides Anthill Direct (5.9-) in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, using the DMM Pivot belay device [Photo] Peter Braam, Pros: Description of DMM The Pivot Red. The DMM Pivot belay device is a unique pivot-style belay device that has all the advantages of a standard plate, but uses an innovative system that allows for full and complete control and management of the rope whilst in guide mode. Future I believe there is still room for improvement in dual mode devices. The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in … No more backup prusiks or other shenanigans to slow you down. On the positive side, the Pivot (and Reverso) offers more friction and holding power than the ATC Guide, especially when you're using thinner ropes, 9.2mm in diameter and smaller (DMM says the Pivot can be used for ropes 7.3mm to 11mm). The GiGi … This is no small feat and DMM is justified in singing its praises. Disabling it will result in some disabled or missing features. Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2019. There's a problem loading this menu right now. Edited to add: Rappelling and belaying in non guide mode is the same as with other tube style belay devices. However, if said fallen climber wants to be lowered, the belayer will initiate a release of the brake by levering the device with a carabiner, nut tool or a redirected sling. The manufacturers of these devices recommend keeping a brake hand on the rope while belaying and catching a fall, hence the proper phrase used for these devices—"assisted braking" rather than "self-locking." DMM International Ltd; Y Glyn, Llanberis, Gwynedd, Wales, ... Versatile, functional and innovative the Pivot is a state-of-the-art belay device catering for modern belay techniques with the latest ropes. Quality construction. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. These are the products we considered that ultimately didn't make our top 5. Versatile, functional and innovative, the new DMM Pivot is a modern belay device that caters for modern belaying techniques with modern ropes. The megaJul is way more versatile and has the "autoblock" feature. Description of DMM Pivot Belay Device Red. Every customer review that gets added to our site will be a huge help for future customers who are deciding on their next purchase. Most importantly, the Pivot is the easiest of the "guide mode" devices when it comes to lowering the second -- either a few inches or all the way down. The Pivot's shackle reduces the force needed to initiate lowering, increasing control of the speed at which you lower your second. The DMM Pivot is a versatile, functional and innovative belay device that caters for modern belay techniques with modern ropes. In the modern climbing era it's become regular practice on multipitch routes to belay from above with a belay device that has an assisted-braking function. The Pivot's swiveling loop allows its angle to adjust to increase the ease of releasing the brake and lowering a seconding climber from an anchor above. The DMM Pivot on the other hand is easier to reverse and allows for a smooth lower. Once the seconding climber begins climbing again after a fall, the belayer simply pulls (sometimes hard) the pinched rope out from the V-shaped groove and all is well. I specifically choose the Pivot when I am belaying from above using ropes less than 9.2mm in diameter, and when I know rappels will be part of the descent. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for DMM The Pivot - at Amazon.com. The Pivot and Reverso's channels are shorter in length and thinner in width than the ATC Guide. Reviews It is almost boring to say, but I can t really think of anything about the DMM Pivot that I don t like. The design of the Pivot's rope channels (the two holes where a bight of rope goes through) is similar to the Petzl Reverso 4 and quite different from the Black Diamond ATC Guide. 1 of 3 new belay devices for 2015, the DMM Pivot takes a uniquely simple approach to solving a problem that has plagued "guide mode" belay devices since they were invented. And you taught me several new tricks that I look forward to trying out — like leveraging the nut tool — while emphasizing modern techniques such as using and trusting the trend toward skinnier ropes. Here's a video that shows how to use the DMM Pivot. Mike Lewis demonstrates how to lower a climber while in "guide mode" with the DMM Pivot: The belayer can set up a sling to pull back the carabiner on the rope and release the friction on the brake-end of the rope, allowing it to slide through the device while maintaining control with the brake hand. Yes, the Pivot is the best yet. The set-up to lower a second using the DMM Pivot. While it used to be our Top Pick for this purpose, it is no longer the one that we recommend as our favorite. With a thin-enough rope the weighted climber-side of the rope can slip to the side of the brake-end and get pinched in the rope channel; with a simple 180-degree twist of the carabiner, the assisted brake will release—not good. FREE SHIPPING on Over 250,000 Products. When I was using the Pivot in "guide mode" (a term referring to the assisted braking function) and releasing the brake to lower a second, the Pivot performed exceptionally well and better than the Reverso, ATC Guide and other devices.

dmm pivot review

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