A thick and thin yarn is typically a multifilament yarn in which diameter variations are deliberately induced via variation in the filament flow rate through the spinneret during extrusion. o. Seamless garments can directly be made in knitting. Chenille yarns (Fig. These yarns can be produced using a wide range of accessories attached to commercial spinning machines. Sublime Stitches Part 2: Basic Embroidery Stitches In the Spring 2016 issue of Spin Off, Kate Larson shared tips for embroidering with your handspun yarns. D. shed. The following examples belong to the groups of threads with continuous effects: wavy threads, spiral threads, loop threads (boucle, frotte) and chenille threads. Satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns. The base or core yarn 2. This type of yarn provides a unique surface texture to the fabric made from the yarns similar to that of linen fabrics. The hollow spindle method is one of the four methods, together with ring spinning, the combined system and the chenille method, for production of fancy yarns (Gong et al. -The binder is used to tie the effect yarn to the base yarn if binding is necessary. Video Lesson: Twill Gamps. Knitted fabrics results wrinkle-free and ease-of-care garments with better form fitting and comfort. It has many desirable fibre properties making it an important fibre for textile applications. 9.6c typically has a fine strand spiraling around a soft and bulky strand. Novelty yarns are often weak and have poor abrasion resistance. The fancy or effect 3. 9.6F–H, respectively, have dramatic effect strands [4,18]. e.g. Cor-respondingly, the warp and weft densities were arrived at 53 and 33/cm respectively. In the context of design, it is important to point out that in addition to the deliberate irregularities induced in fancy yarns, fiber strands with different physical characteristics can also be used to make fancy yarns. Ply yarn. Another member of the group of threads with continuous effect is loop-thread. Shetland yarn: The 2-ply yarn used for sweaters. ), and the core-effect arrangement used [7,18]. Examples of fancy yarns [4,7,18]. Unfortunately, the introduction of thermoplastic thread to the structure of chenille raises the price of the yarn and only a few producers of chenille thread can afford to adopt such an innovation. The core strand in loop yarns is usually coarser and heavier than in boucle yarns. THOMANNY, U. I.; ERMANNI, P.: The influence of yarn structure and processing conditions on the laminate quality of stampformed carbon and thermoplastic polymer fiber commingled yarns. Novelty Yarns. Figure 9.6a and 9.6b represents two examples of the first type of fancy yarn, namely slub yarns and thick and thin yarns. The fasciated structure of bouclé yarns made by using a hollow spindle machine. Fig. 9.6. In the context of design, it is important to point out that in addition to the deliberate irregularities induced in fancy yarns, fiber strands of different physical characteristics can also be used to make fancy yarns [4,7]. They both have an effect strand that lies closer to the core strand than is typical in boucle and loop.4. https://fibres2fabrics.blogspot.com/2013/01/construction-of-knit-fabric.html In the simplest weaving arrangement, alternate warp yarns are over or under the shuttle as it moves in one direction and the warp yarn positions are reversed for the return stroke of the shuttle. UN-2 Under intense pressure from the textile industry in the United States, the NAFTA agreement however ushered in a novelty in rules of origin, the so-called “ Yarn Forward” rule. These devices are now available as optional accessories with most commercial spinning machines. The component thread, which is fed at a higher tension, will form the core, and the thread fed with a lower tension will be wound round the core and will form a continuous wavy structure. E. Mielicka, in Advances in Knitting Technology, 2011. Slub yarn is basically a spun yarn (ring- or rotor-spun yarn) in which thickness variations are deliberately induced via variation in yarn twist combined with a control of fiber feed so that thick areas will exhibit lower twist than thin areas. Fancy yarns, also called novelty or effect yarns, represent another category of yarns in which deliberate irregularities, discontinuities and color variations are introduced into the yarn structure with the primary intention being to produce enhanced esthetic and fashionable impressions.4,7,15 Accordingly, fancy yarns are not necessarily intended for function-focus fibrous products. Grain: runs the length of the fabric. In addition, the possibility of using a wide range of fibers including low quality fibers and a variety of fiber wastes also adds to the overall reduction in manufacturing cost. Differences in individual yarn fineness is employed to make corkscrew and spiral yarns. Single yarn, the simplest type of yarn, is commonly produced by twisting together staple or filament fibers. They differ from simple yarns that their structure is characterized by irregularities. A return to our classic Basics line, this time for crochet! A snarl yarn uses a twist-lively strand to form the projecting snarls. Chenille yarns are used as crosswise yarns in a woven fabric to create a velvet-like surface or occasionally placed in the filling to add surface effects. o. Binder . A slub yarn is basically a spun yarn (ring or rotor-spun yarn) in which thickness variations are deliberately induced by variation in the yarn twist combined with control of the fiber feed so that thick areas will exhibit lower twist than thin areas. Fancy yarns are made with a distinctive irregular profile which is different from basic single and folded yarns. Plied yarns are produced by twisting two or more single yarns. Chenille yarns are also used in knit fabrics for the purpose of making bulky sweater knits. of or pertaining to novelties as articles of trade: novelty goods; novelty items. that ties the effect yarn to the base yarn if binding is necessary. A deliberate difference in length, denier, cross-section and modulus of component fibres can be exploited to position them at predetermined zones of the yarn cross-section, with short and coarse fibres occupying the yarn surface. another term for a fancy yarn: Term. E. batten. It is possible to produce multi-count and multi-twist yarns with independent servo drives to the drafting rollers, by varying the main draft and front roller speed respectively. Novelty or fancy yarn 11. The floating yarn is then passed under one of the opposite yarn before repeating the process again. You guessed it: blue. Similarly to the ring system, the production of a fancy yarn with a hollow spindle requires three different components: core, effect and binder. Most fancy yarns are produced by specialist fancy spinners, using machines modified or developed for the purpose. Various fancys By definition, fancy yarns are any type of yarn with a deliberate interruption or discontinuity in color or form. It is a platform to express your knowledge throughout the world. There can be endless variety of novelty yarns. The end uses include cover a broad range starting from Similarly, a blend of fibres having varying shrinkage when combined with colour difference can also give fancy effects. Download . In order to improve the design potential in this group of yarns, new heat-shrinkable components are inserted at the last stage of the production process. By combining fibre types, and using different spinning systems and machinery, yarns can be developed with individual profiles suitable for a vast range of end uses. Fancy yarns are generally produced by the irregular plying of staple fibre or continuous filaments and are characterised by the presence of abrupt and periodic effects. Flat thread is produced using a weaving method based on plain or gauze weave with a very low production efficiency. The former are made from a single staple-fiber strand or multifilament yarn in which irregularities are introduced during the conversion from fibers to yarns; the latter consist of two or more fiber strands used to provide the desired combined effects. Today, yarn spinning or production is a highly advanced technology that enables the engineering of different yarn structures having specifically desired properties suited for particular end use applications. S-twist. The same effect can be obtained through the use of extreme differences in tension on the ring twister frame or hollow spindle during the manufacturing process. It is possible to produce a wide range of yarn structures with fancy appearance using inbuilt programs that control the servo motors in ring spinning. As noted from the definition most fancy yarns are either single or plied. Well you're in luck, because here they come. … In general, there are three basic classifications. 5. Where once the extreme complexity and difficulty of making and using fancy yarns inhibited their production in sufficient quantity or at a low enough price for the mass market, improved process control has now greatly extended their market penetration. The twist of the effect strand is usually in the same direction as the twist that holds the effect and core strands; the binder strand is usually twisted in the opposite direction [4]. We use cookies to help provide and enhance our service and tailor content and ads. In both yarns, the effect strand is twisted around the core strand, but ratiné yarns are usually larger and wavier than gimp yarns due to a larger effect strand. They are used in ladies outerwear, mens jackets, knitwear, ties, furnishings, curtains and upholstery. This thread belongs to the group of fancy threads with continuous effects – it is wavy thread produced on a base of weft knit fabrics. fWHAT ARE NOVELTY YARNS? Warp knitting is a family of knitting methods in which the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric; i.e., following adjacent columns, or wales, of knitting, rather than a single row, or course.For comparison, knitting across the width of the fabric is called weft knitting. From a comparison of the external appearance of boucle and frotte threads made from the same raw materials and at the same parameters of the twisting frame machine, it can be seen that the threads of the boucle type are more attractive, but are thicker and more rigid. For example, the corkscrew yarn shown in Fig. See more. Novelty Yarns: Novelty yarns are made primarily for their appearance. Chenille yarns (Fig. The little girl in me conjures up visions of tutus, castles and lace. 2. The term fancy, complex and novelty are considered synonymous. The compound fancy yarns shown in Fig. Yarn refers to a structure composed of continuous length of interlocked fibers. KNIT Which of these stitches is used to create color effects or structural designs? Metallic fibers will give you and your work special sparkle. This profile enhances the visual and textural properties of the fabric. This technique has an efficiency of 18 m/minute and makes it possible to produce round chenille threads with various lengths of pile along the yarn. A typical novelty yarn has three basic parts: 1.The ground or foundation or core. Such combinations cause the price of thread to rise considerably, and dramatically increase the linear density of thread. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness introduced during production. 2. The most common novelty yarn material is wool. Such types of threads are produced by the Polish spinning industry. Natural fibres, including some linens, wools to be woven… 13.3). Blending of regular polyester fibres with cationic dyeable polyester can be used to get attractive colours, contrast and fancy effects. Basic structure of knit fabrics Knitted fabrics are an alternative to the woven or loom fabrics. harness. R.S. Frotte threads are characterized by low resistance in comparison with boucle-type threads. This weave is achieved by ‘floating’ the warp or weft yarn over four or more of the opposite yarn. It is also observed that the loops of frotte-type threads differ from those of boucle-type threads. The chenille threads are usually imported from Italy. flat chenille threads) and cylindrical chenille threads, where the pile is distributed regularly and spatially around the longitudinal axis. The core and the effect components are not twisted in the hollow spindle or have very small twist, compared to the twist of the filament around them (Gong et al. In particular, fancy yarns have become an increasingly prominent part of the revived hand knitting market, although this can best be seen as further evidence for the overall change in attitude within the market, which is discussed in the next section. effect strand. For example, the corkscrew yarn shown in Fig. Sports yarn: The 3-ply yarn used for socks, sweaters, and hats. Slubs of varying dimensions can be produced by using differential fibre length in the core and effect components. Many novelty yarns are composed of: o. Base/core . A snarl yarn uses a twist-lively strand to form the projecting snarls. Classification according to their structure; The yarn may be divided into three types according to their structure. These yarns … Rengasamy, in Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology, 2010. Many fancy yarns are produced using a conventional staple-fiber spinning systems equipped with special accessories. Texturized yarns made exclusively from continuous filaments can also be considered as a form of fancy yarns. Manufacture of fancy yarns often involves plying and cabling together different yarns of varying counts and twists. The manufacturing cost that may be added as a result of using these accessories is largely counterbalanced by many other factors that can indeed result in a net cost reduction. styles and designs can be changed rapidly. The core thread forms the base of the structure onto which the effect thread produces the geometrical shape or profile of the effect, which can be loops, knops, snarls, etc. The fancy effect yarn 3. Novelty yarn. The binder. Key structural parameters associated with slub yarns include slub size with respect to yarn diameter, slub length and slub spacing or frequency. Typically, slubs are randomly and irregularly spaced along the yarn axis. In these types of threads the pattern-effect of the yarn is applied to the whole length of the thread. Currently, customers of fancy yarn are especially interested in KDK thread (Knitt de Knitt). Novelty yarns are classified according to the single or ply structure: Single yarns are Tweed and Slub Yarns. Another term for a fancy yarn. B. harness. ScienceDirect ® is a registered trademark of Elsevier B.V. ScienceDirect ® is a registered trademark of Elsevier B.V. URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845697570500040, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845699307500013, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845690489500090, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780081024881000095, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845693725500012, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845694449500139, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845699314000088, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781855735736500060, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845694449500073, URL: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780857091086500016, Types and properties of fibres and yarns used in weaving, Structure and types of yarn for textile product design, Types and suitability of yarns for knitting, An overview of textiles and textile design from fibre to product purchase, It is possible to produce multi-count and multi-twist yarns with independent servo drives to the drafting rollers, by varying the main draft and front roller speed respectively. According to the classification, depending on the structure of the thread, there are fancy threads with continuous effects and point effects. Texturized yarns made exclusively from continuous filaments can also be considered as a form of fancy yarn. A thick-and-thin yarn is typically a multifilament yarn in which diameter variations are deliberately induced by variation in the filament flow rate through the spinneret during extrusion. Cotton melange yarn has been highly successful in enhancing the appeal of knitted garments such as T-shirts, etc. Fancy yarns, also called novelty or effect yarns, represent another category of yarns in which deliberate irregularities, discontinuities and color variations are introduced into the yarn structure with the primary intention being to produce enhanced esthetic and fashionable impressions. Common types of Novelty Yarns: Bouclé: Loopy and bumpy. (of a weave) consisting of a combination of basic weaves. An example of this is frotte-type thread produced with a core made of PAN, joined with effective thread such as chenille, which creates the loop. In general, fancy yarns may be divided into two major categories [4,7,18]: monofancy yarns and compound fancy yarns. Fancy yarns are invariably used to create fashion fabrics. They add interest to any knitted garment. Y.E. Of the major fibers, rayon is the least likely to be Used in the handmade yarn business. As well as changing the appearance of a fabric, the introduction of a fancy yarn will affect the handle and performance of that fabric. However, they are also characterized by more flexibility, which is very important for knitting purposes. Fig. Fancy yarns, also called novelty or effect yarns, represent another category of yarns in which deliberate irregularities, discontinuities, and color variations are introduced into the yarn structure with the primary intention being the production of enhanced aesthetic and fashionable impressions [4,7,18]. 9.6C typically has a fine strand spiraling around a soft and bulky strand. In: Journal of Thermoplastic Composite Materials 17 (2004), No. R. Alagirusamy, A. Das, in Textiles and Fashion, 2015. The idea of a compound fancy yarn is to combine two or three strands together so that one of them acts as the fancy or effect strand, another acts as the yarn core, and perhaps the third one acts as a binder to secure the effect strand to the core strand. The evaporation of the ready yarn produces a wavy effect in the fancy thread. These threads are rich in design effects but have low usage parameters. The simplest among the fancy yarns, marl yarn is made by twisting two different-coloured yarns in a doubling process. knit - basic stitch; wales = front, courses = back 2. purl - reverse of knit stitch courses = front, wales = back 3. miss - float stitch used to create color effects 4. tuck - elongated skipped stitch that creates holes in fabric; used to create lacy, textural design effects. Miss. Both gimp and ratiné yarns (Fig. This simple, crew-neck, drop-shoulder, bottom-up, seamed cardigan can be worked in any gauge with any weight yarn, though it’s shown here in a worsted weight. Boucle, loop, and snarl yarns shown in Fig. This is typically controlled by a number of structural factors including the size of the effect strand, the configuration assumed by the effect strand (wavy, looped, snarled, etc.) The development of fancy yarns represents a model example of how a market can be dynamically stimulated using creative ideas that can attract consumers and draw attention to the products with minimum added cost. Narrow ribbon-like fabrics with one or more rows of stitched thread forming the basic structure of the yarn. In a slash yarn, the enlarged area is longer and thinner than in a nub yarn [4]. binder strand . The machine is fully automated so requires no change of gears to modify draft, twist and speed. They are as follows: 1. Key structural parameters associated with slub yarns include the following: slub size with respect to yarn diameter, slub length, and slub spacing or frequency. In both boucle and loop yarns, the binder strand is necessary to hold the loops in place. Thus, the core and the effect components pass through a roller drafting unit (though having different paths) and enter the axial inlet of the hollow spindle. Novelty, Speciality & Fancy Knitting & Crochet Yarn For fun, creative projects bursting with character, jump into our pool of joyous novelty, speciality and fancy knitting and crochet yarns. (of a fabric or garment) having a pattern or design produced by a novelty weave. A combination of both can produce slub/, Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology. Fashion or novelty yarn: Any novelty structure. Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves The common kinds of novelty yarns are: Chenille-It is smooth and velvety and can be tricky to work with. At its simplest, yarn production is essentially about taking fibres, organising them so that they lie in a lengthways direction and twisting them to create a yarn. The core strand in loop yarns is usually coarser and heavier than in boucle yarns. The effect is composed of tufts of yarn held between plied yarns that form the core of the chenille yarn. Download : Download full-size image; FIGURE 8.8. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure, or fiber composition. These fabrics are used for many products such as dresses, draperies, and bedspreads. Fancy effects can also be created by changing fibre specifications such as type, length, denier, cross-sectional shape, crimp, initial modulus, colour, lustre, affinity for dyes and shrinkage, etc. Colour effects along the yarn length are introduced by twisting different coloured yarns, spinning blended dyed fibres, or by irregularly printing/dyeing spun yarns. All the yarns listed may be found in any fiber. For increased lustre, fibres with a flat cross-section, such as trilobal and ribbon-shaped yarns, are often employed. Computer-aided designing and manufacturing in knitting have made it possible to manufacture any desired structure within a short time at reasonable price. Moreover, the requirement to match the twist of base thread is reached at the weft knit fabric manufacturing stage. A blend of cotton, silk, wool, and viscose, this yarn will add texture to knit and crochet projects. Examples of how to use “novelty yarn” in a sentence from the Cambridge Dictionary Labs From chain stitch to couching, thread a needle and create beautiful needlework with your handspun. Developments in spinning, however, have led to new spinning systems including ‘open-end’, ‘self-twist’ and ‘jet’ spinning. R. Wright, in Specialist Yarn and Fabric Structures, 2011. In addition, the importance of stimulating and attracting consumers was addressed. … The yarn structure shown in Figure 8.7 clearly shows the alternation of colours, which is the primary effect of marl yarn, as well as demonstrating the plain structure, which is that of an ordinary folded yarn. The wrapping of the two components (core and effect) by the filament to create a fasciated structure leads to the result that most of the elements in the fancy yarn stay parallel. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine.Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Novelty yarns are created by special spinning, twisting or combining these processes. Classification of yarn according to structure: Continuous filament yarn Staple yarn Core spun yarn Novelty yarn Stretch yarn High bulk yarn 7. Lang Kylie is a unique natural fiber yarn with a subtle thick and thin bouclé structure. Yarns can be combined together as components of new yarns with different effects and properties from their component parts. 9.6f, 9.6g, and 9.6h, respectively, have dramatic effect strands.4,15 The effect strand in boucle yarns is usually the softest and bulkiest of this group and, typically, does not lie near the core strand. Fancy Yarn: Yarn refers to a structure composed of continuous length of interlocked fibers. This group contains threads known as frotte. It is also produced on a knitting base – i.e. Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, or ropemaking. Novelty yarns like spike yarns are also being used in making soft toys. Novelty: Novelty yarns are easy to recognize because their appearance is so different from traditional yarns: Ribbon: A knitted ribbon in rayon or a rayon blend. Effect . Jul 15, 2020 - Explore Martha Vickery's board "Novelty Yarn Patterns" on Pinterest. El Mogahzy, in Engineering Textiles, 2009. 9.6j) resemble a caterpillar, hence the derivation of their name from the French word chenille, which means caterpillar. May 26, 2019 - Explore Leslie Carey's board "novelty yarns", followed by 153 people on Pinterest. If the direction of twist in the component yarns is kept different, the plying operation will produce an unbalanced twisted spiral yarn. base strand . A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. It is built on a base of two core threads and one effective thread, which creates the loops on the surface. When this situation is reversed (i.e., a soft and bulky strand spiraling around a fine strand), the yarn is commonly called a spiral fancy yarn. Textile - Textile - Classification based on use: Almost any textile yarn can be used to produce such interlaced fabrics as woven and knitted types. Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. or its licensors or contributors. One of the most popular and well-known fancy yarns is slub yarn which has been used in various types of apparel such as suits and shirts. Nevertheless, the number of design variants of threads created from various types of fancy thread is infinite. These yarns are providing us with a huge variety of surface ornamented fabrics at a low cost. When the color-printed fragment of combed tape has been treated by this process, the color printing is elongated and blurred to produce a rainbow effect in the ready yarn. In this way, we can also create a rainbow effect on the yarn. 13.4. chenille yarn, loop yarn, slub yarn, snarl yarn. C. reed. Sadhan Chandra Ray, in Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology, 2012. strand that provides structure and strength. See more ideas about Novelty yarn, Yarn, Ribbon yarn. The softness of chenille yarns makes them vulnerable to rubbing; consequently, fabrics containing them do not wear well because of a low abrasion resistance [4,18]. In both boucle and loop yarns, the binder strand is necessary to hold the loops in place [4]. The introduction of a heat shrinkage thread to the structure of the fancy thread has been used in the production of chenille threads using the hollow spindle method. Structure of Cotton Fiber: Cotton, the seed hair of plants of the genus Gossypium, is the purest form of cellulose readily available in nature. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with such special effects as slubs, produced by intentionally including small lumps in the yarn structure, and synthetic yarns with varying thickness introduced during production. All textile yarn is classified according to structure, or how they are made. 4,7,15 Accordingly, fancy yarns are not necessarily intended for function-focus fibrous products. - The base/core strand provides the structure and strength. Knitted garments have very good demand in export market. The part of the loom through which the filling yarn is inserted is the A. shuttle. a soft and bulky strand spiraling around a fine strand), the yarn is commonly called a spiral fancy yarn. 3.0 Staple Spinning Systems 3.1 Ring Spun Yarns The processing of a cotton ring spun yarn must go through a carding machine. Novelty yarns, typically made of two or more stands, are produced to provide decorative surface effects. There is also a modification of this method, which involves the periodic input of pile to obtain chenille thread with a point effect. Yarn producers or spinners buy in natural and/or man-made fibres to make these into yarns of different sizes and characters; regular and fancy yarns. All the yarns listed may be found in any fiber. The wrapping filament is the only one that imparts the necessary cohesion – Fig. Typical fancy yarns include snarl, spiral, loop, chenille, slub and nep. By continuing you agree to the use of cookies. The binder is, in general, a filament, which is wound onto the pirn, placed on the hollow spindle. Spiral = Mock spiral, mouliné, jaspé, Gimp = Frisé, caterpillar, ondé, Slub = Ground slub, injected slub, injected flame (also called tear-off flame), Knop = Knot, nep, noppé, button, reverse caterpillar, flake, Loop = Bouclé, frotté, prong, mock-spun chenille, Chenille = Woven chenille, plied chenille, Figure-2: Structure of fancy yarns with type of effects, Yarn not found available or yarn delivery is delay, Fancy Yarn | Types and Classification of Fancy Yarns | Basic Principle of Fancy Yarn, Basic Parts of Sewing Machine and Its Function, Step by Step Fashion Design Development Process, Different Types of Seams and Their Uses on Garments. Fancy yarns produced by using hollow spindle machines have a similar look to yarns produced with ring twisting and the combined system, but their structure and properties are different. Basic/Simple Weaves; Compound/Complex/Novelty … Bias: the diagonal or cross grain of a woven fabric. Fancy yarn, sometimes known as novelty yarn is a yarn that is made with a distinctive irregular profile or a construction that differs from basic single and folded yarns, the objective of which is to enhance the aesthetics of the end product with respect to visual and textural properties. The effect is composed of tufts of yarn held between plied yarns that form the core of the chenille yarn. Based on the purpose, each strand is referred to as base/core, effect, or binder. The binder strand is usually small and is often not readily visible. Fancy yarn, sometimes known as novelty yarn is a yarn that is made with a distinctive irregular profile or a construction that differs from basic single and folded yarns, the objective of which is to enhance the aesthetics of the end product with respect to visual and textural properties. Fancy yarns produced by using hollow spindle machines have a similar look to yarns produced with ring twisting and the combined system, but their structure and properties are different. - The base/core strand provides the structure and strength. Simple yarns consist of single or plied yarns that are uniform in size, smooth and have an equal number of twists and turns along the strand. The former is made from a single staple-fiber strand or multifilament yarn in which irregularities are introduced during the conversion from fibers to yarns; the latter consist of two or more fiber strands used to provide desired combined effects. Novelty bulky yarns may make the fabric hard to handle. In fact, it is possible to use natural raw materials, such as cotton, but the thermal-stabilization process must then be optimized and the parameters of this process must be matched for natural fibers. This makes it possible for producers to make large profits very quickly. Yarns are grouped into simple and novelty (specialty) yarns. They may also be used to provide a Lurex or other metallic yarn with strong support, while at the same time creating a more subtle effect (Gong & Wright, 2002). They both have an effect strand that lies closer to the core strand than is typical in boucle and loop [4]. and the core-effect arrangement used.7,15 The compound fancy yarns shown in Fig. (of yarn) having irregularities within the fibrous structure. The idea of a compound fancy yarn is to combine two or three strands together so that one of them acts as the fancy or effect strand, another acts as the yarn core and perhaps a third one acts as a binder to secure the effect strand to the core strand. effect filament. These yarns are used to make discreet pinstripes in men’s suiting or to produce a subtly and irregularly patterned knitted fabric with a relatively simple fabric construction. Chenille yarns are usually made from cotton, wool, rayon or polyester and are used in fabrics that are soft and velvety. Devices used to create these types of yarn have been available since the 19th century. S-twist: Definition. For example, fancy yarns being a result of induced irregularities and discontinuities require quality constraints and testing procedures that are much less than those implemented for traditional yarns. The difference between these two types of thread derives from differences in the production process. For many years the main spinning systems could be given as woollen, worsted and cotton, and these systems gave rise to the woollen, worsted and cotton industries. Labour compliment requirement is less in knitting; hence problems related to labour are less. The thread does not create problems during processing due to the selection of optimal raw materials. consists of two or more strands of fibers held together by twist or some other mechanism ... narrow ribbon-like fabrics with one or more rows of stitched thread forming the basic structure of the yarn: Term. 9.6D and E) exhibit a slightly wavy appearance. Sharing Knowledge: Students, teachers and professionals can publish your article here. In loop yarns, the effect strand is usually made of long, rigid fibers that may also be lustrous, such as mohair or wool, or untwisted thick filament strand. 4 Figure 2 - Textured Filament Yarn. The binder strand is usually small and is often not readily visible. It is important to point out that although interest in classical solutions for the production of smooth fancy threads is constant, it has a tendency to decline unless new interesting solutions for the structure of such threads are developed. The boucle loop has a very clear shape, which is regular along the whole length of this fancy thread. The effect is achieved through the continuous and smooth twisting of many component multi-colored threads. The way that fibers are spun and twisted determines a yarn’s structure. Ply Yarns are Ratine, Spiral, Knot, Snarl and Boucle. Binder yarns which are used in novelty-type yarns, such as bouclé yarns, to hold the loops, or in fancy/effect yarns to the core or base, are also considered as a reinforcement yarn. Single yarn/staple fiber yarn / spun yarn. Carry along feathers, loops or eyelash yarns to create new textures and bring drama to your garments. The density (tpi) and direction of twist (S/Z) are often manipulated during plying and cabling so as to create particular effects. Video Lesson: Double-Faced Twill. B. has twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. In terms of high production efficiency, the current most popular method of producing chenille threads is one based on twisting with the use of a hollow spindle. 9.6d and 9.6e) exhibit a slightly wavy appearance. Wrapping Up ... Doubleweave is a fascinating and versatile structure. The production efficiency of these types of threads when applied in modern production techniques (hollow spindle) is very high, and could even reach 200 m/minute (meters per minute), in comparison with the classical method (ring twisters method), reaching 15 m/minute at most. For example, fancy yarns that are a result of induced irregularities and discontinuities require quality constraints and testing procedures that are much less than those implemented for traditional yarns. 2002, Petrulytė and Petrulis 2004). Generally, this yarn involves a strand or two of "normal" yarn combined, often by twisting, with something else to create a more interesting color pattern or texture. The development of fancy yarns represents a model example of how a market can be dynamically stimulated using creative ideas that can attract consumers and draw attentions to the products at minimum added costs. Slub yarns are made by uneven twisting of yarns creating thick and thin areas. There are 5752 novelty yarn for sale on Etsy, and they cost $5.14 on average. 6. Typically, slubs are randomly and irregularly spaced along the yarn axis. Novelty yarns are available in different types of colors and textures. Yet, I don't often know what to do with them. It is composed of two 1/1 ribs interlocked together with crossed sinker wales (Figure 1 a). Pinter has developed a small ring-spinning machine – ‘Merlin’ – with six or 48 spindles that allow it to work with a range of fibres to produce all types of special yarns and their combinations: slub (multi-count and multi-twist), core spun, devore and double rove yarns. The effect strand in boucle yarns is usually the softest and bulkiest of this group and, typically, does not lie near the core strand. An example is boucle yarn, formed by allowing one yarn to form loops around a core or central yarn, while a third yarn holds or binds these two yarns together. Manufactured By a solution in … KEYWORDS: Fancy Yarn Quality & Fancy Yarn Structure INTRODUCTION Fancy yarns, or novelty yarns, are defined by as “special products of carding, drawing, Dref spinning, rotor At present, these threads are mostly found in the textile industry and are known not to generate problems during the manufacturing process or subsequent processing. For details: Submit Article. They are suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope making.However, fancy yarn deviates from the normal yarns. R.A. Angelova, in Advances in Yarn Spinning Technology, 2010, The commercial significance of fancy yarns increases continuously due to the abundance of possible effects and their aesthetic influence on the look of knitted and woven fabrics. Types of Neckties | How to Wear Men’s Tie or Neckwear to Fashion. The basic twill types: straight, point, extended point, and broken twills; ... Twill with Novelty Yarn. The part of the loom that controls the basic fabric structure is the A. shuttle. Novelty yarns are usually uneven is size, varied in color or modified appearance by their formation. The basic structure of a gimp yarn is illustrated in Figure-6 . Fancy yarns have wide-ranging application in apparel at all levels of the market. Effect of Yarn Twist Direction and Woven Design on Certain Novelty Fabrics from Cotton/Polyester Trilobal Filament 3-ply Yarn ... because of the loose structure of the sateen weaves. C. reed. Selvedge: The weft yarns are wrapped around the warp yarns to create an edge to the fabric, known as the Selvedge. It should be pointed out that some fabric is called ‘chenille’ even though it does not contain chenille yarns. No yarn preparatory machinery is required in weft knitting and only warping is needed in warp knitting. Figure-6: Gimp yarn: Although it is common to overfeed the effect in the first twisting stage, this is not essential. Both the appearance is the same on both sides. In general, fancy yarns may be divided into two major categories:4,7,15 mono-fancy yarns and compound fancy yarns. The most common types of novelty yarn are bouclé yarn, Figure 8.8 shows the basic structure, which is straightforward, except in the differing lengths of the two yarns involved, and is very similar to the structure of a marl yarn. A binder strand may or may not be used. yarn manufacturing plant, numerous bales are used in a lay-down to further blend out variation. The twisting of the core and the effect component is done during the first stage. This is one type of novelty yarn. Chenille: Velvety and smooth, can be tricky to knit with. Accordingly, fancy yarns are not necessarily intended for function-focus fibrous products. In this method, it is recommended that raw materials with shrinkage properties (such as PAN or filament man-made fiber) are used in order to obtain the desired effect. Both gimp and ratiné yarns (Fig. Under conditions of steam and high temperature, a thin filament thread with the heat-shrinkage property can tend to get inside the yarn core and modify the structure of the smooth thread. The second stage involves the twisting of the binder around the first two components, thus fixing the effects and giving additional strength to the final yarn. Types of fancy yarn are classified according to their structure as well as the method of manufacturing. 13.4. - The effect strand creates decorative detail such as knots and loops. Yehia E. Elmogahzy, in Engineering Textiles (Second Edition), 2020. Chenille yarns are also used in knit fabrics to make bulky sweater knits. Single yarns include spun, monofilament, and multifilament yarns. [getWidget results="3" label="recent" type="list"]. Manufactured By a solution in forced through very … Novelty yarn is a relatively new trend that has enabled a variety of new looks for knitters who prefer to depart from traditional yarn. This type of yarns provides a unique surface texture to the fabric made from the yarns similar to that of linen fabrics. Regular yarns are those which have a regular straight profile and these can be twisted together, making ‘two-fold’ or ‘three-fold’ yarns for example. When this situation is reversed (i.e. Such ring-spinning machines are in operation all around the world. Hollow spindle spinning gives the possibility of integrating the two stages of the traditional ring system into one. The most popular color? The differences in the appearance of the various yarns are largely dependent on the extent of prominence of the effect strand. Under the category of the structure of chenille threads, there are two sub-groups – chenille threads with flush pile (i.e. Classification of Woven Fabrics. Here the effective thread is braided on the base of one core with a big surplus, which creates the loops. The fancy or effect 3. In a slash yarn, the enlarged area is longer and thinner than in a nub yarn. 9.6C–J are listed in the order of their prominence if they are visualized side by side in a piece of fabric. This is typically controlled by a number of structural factors including the following: the size of the effect strand, the configuration assumed by the effect strand (wavy, looped, snarled, etc. Fancy or novelty yarns are of decorative purpose. having or displaying novelties: novelty … TEXTILE SPINNING Textile Technology knowledge series Volume II TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS APRIL 21, 2019 Bouclé: This highly bumpy, textured yarn is composed of loops. Nub and slash yarns have the effect strand twisted around the core strand a number of times in a small area to form an enlarged bump or “nub.” A binder strand may or may not be used. ASTM defines a fancy yarn as a yarn that differs significantly from the normal appearance of single or plied yarns due to the presence of irregularities deliberately produced during its formation. Boucle yarns are found in both woven and knit fabrics that are often called boucle fabrics. In this case, the thermoplastic core of the chenille thread is inserted in order to strengthen the hairy effect of the chenille thread and to prevent fibering off during processing on knitting machines and also during the use of knitted goods. There is currently a tendency towards making combinations of various types of fancy threads in various structural systems. Continuous filament yarn Continuous filament yarns are the simplest in the structure. These fabrics are essentially tufted and they are often used for bathrobes and bedspreads. Novelty effects in fabrics are in large part a result of selection of novelty yarns for incorporation into fabrics made in one of the basic weaves. It is subjected to the thermal-stabilization process and after this to rowing. Loop yarns are frequently used in coating and suiting fabrics, for interior furnishings and for speciality fabrics, either knit or woven. As an adult who's crochet crazy, the idea of fancy yarns delights me. Others are produced using special spinning preparation in which blends of various fiber colors or fiber types forming fancy slivers are used. Basic interlock knitted structure is a double 1/1 rib fabric (Figure 1 a, b). covered by . - The effect strand creates decorative detail such as knots and loops. Advanced Yarn Manufacturing Azmir Latif, MSc in TE Figure 9: Structure of Slub Yarn Fasciated Yarn Fasciated yarn is a staple fiber yarn that consists of a core of a parallel fibers bound together by wrapper fibers. It is important to underline the constant high level of interest in mélange threads where the change of thread color and shading takes place continuously. Made of synthetic fibers these yarn blends, novelty yarns provide texture and interest. Chenille: Although tricky to knit with, this yarn … Fancy yarn, sometimes known as novelty yarn is a yarn that is made with a distinctive irregular profile or a construction that differs from basic single and folded yarns, the objective of which is to enhance the aesthetics of the end product with respect to visual and textural properties. These fabrics are used for many products such as dresses, draperies and bedspreads. Boucle yarns are found in both woven and knit fabrics that are often called boucle fabrics. Many fancy yarns are produced using conventional staple-fiber spinning systems equipped with special accessories. Classification of yarn according to structure: Continuous filament yarn Staple yarn Core spun yarn Novelty yarn Stretch yarn High bulk yarn 7. Ply yarn: Definition. In Chapter 3, a number of important business and marketing issues related to product development were discussed. Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with unusual features, structure or fiber composition such as slubs, inclusions, metallic or synthetic fibers, laddering and varying thickness introduced during production. Fashion or novelty yarn: Any novelty structure. Apart from these, there are many other novelty yarns like Chenille, Flake, metallic and textured yarns. They are made by introducing spiral forms of irregularity or hairiness into either spun continuous filament yarn. It differs in texture from normal double yarn. harness. Loop yarns are frequently used in coating and suiting fabrics, for interior furnishings and for specialty fabrics, either knit or woven [4]. 9.6A and B represents two examples of the first type of fancy yarns, namely, slub yarns and thick and thin yarns. The twist of the effect strand is usually in the same direction as the twist that holds the effect and core strands; the binder strand is usually twisted in the opposite direction. Ring spinning, Rotor spinning, wrap spinning, Air-jet spinning etc. in the manufacturing of pillar stitch warp knit fabrics or in the introduction of weft thread as a pile. They are made of artificial yarn blends and provide texture. A combination of both can produce slub/fancy yarns. In weaving, the warp, or lengthwise, yarns are subjected to greater stress and are usually stronger, smoother, and more even and have tighter twist than the weft, or crosswise, yarns. A typical novelty yarn has three basic parts: 1.The ground or foundation or core. Of the major fibers, rayon is the least likely to be Used in the hand made yarn business. A woven fabric with a count of 144 X 76 A. is unbalanced. Fancy yarns are produced with a multiplicity of structural features but the structure of a fancy yarn may be considered in terms of the following three basic components (Fig. The thread is also less flexible. See more ideas about novelty yarn, yarn necklace, yarn. Novelty definition, state or quality of being novel, new, or unique; newness: the novelty of a new job. There is a wide variety of novelty yarns that are produced using different techniques and … It should be pointed out that some fabric is called “chenille” even though it does not contain chenille yarns. The softness of chenille yarns makes them vulnerable to rubbing; consequently, fabrics containing them do not wear well because of a low abrasion resistance.4,15 Chenille yarns are used as crosswise yarns in a woven fabric to create a velvet-like surface or occasionally placed in the filling to add surface effects. Continuous filament yarn Continuous filament yarns are the simplest in the structure. 9.6J) resemble a caterpillar, hence the derivation of their name from the French word chenille, which means caterpillar [4]. If you're striving for the smoothest, most even worsted or the loftiest woolen yarn, stopping to add in locks without drafting them or even tossing some commercial yarn into the mix may seem like a distraction. Similarly, which is the novelty yarn? Vigurex printing can be done on the tape of staple fiber, followed by a process of elongation and twisting. Varying widths and colors, laddering, twists and curls define this category of wonderfully unique yarns. Satin weave creates a super smooth fabric that has a soft hand and drapes well. In woven fabrics, the yarns may be laid so that all the tufts lie on one side of the fabric or so that some tufts appear on both the face and the back. 2002). By mechanically assembly or twisting of staple fibers together spun yarns are made. Figure 1 b shows the structure of interlock. Fancy yarns can be created by deliberately introducing irregularities or intermittent effects along their length. 6.1). Others are produced using a special spinning preparation in which blends of various fiber colors or fiber types that form fancy slivers are used. In this way, we obtain natural wavy thread. Yarns made under the air jet spinning method are of this structure. Indeed, most fancy yarns merely represent random effects introduced to the traditional yarns using simple accessories mounted on conventional spinning machinery such as ring spinning or rotor spinning [7]. This weave can be made on a loom with only two harnesses. These fabrics are essentially tufted, and they are often used for bathrobes and bedspreads [4]. In woven fabrics, the yarns may be laid so that all the tufts lie on one side of the fabric or so that some tufts appear on both the face and the back [4]. Textured and many other fancy yarns can easily be knitted and converted to light weight fashion garments. Other articles where Novelty yarn is discussed: textile: Novelty yarns: Novelty yarns include a wide variety of yarns made with such special effects as slubs, produced by intentionally including small lumps in the yarn structure, and synthetic yarns with varying thickness introduced during production. Chenille yarns are usually made from cotton, wool, rayon, or polyester and are used in fabrics that are soft and velvety. E. batten. The differences in the appearance of the various yarns are largely dependent on the extent of prominence of the effect strand. Bouclé- Bumpy and loopy. Cotton is the most important of the raw materials for the textile industry. Soft and slightly tweedy, Kylie will make pullovers, cardigans, and wraps that are perfect to wear as the weather warms up. Academia.edu is a platform for academics to share research papers. Compound fancy yarns can be found in an unlimited number of varieties and textures. In addition, the possibility of using a wide range of fibers including low quality fibers and a variety of fiber wastes also adds to the overall reduction in manufacturing cost [1]. Novelty yarn: Definition. Modern knitting machines, particularly warp knitting machines can produce various types of technical textiles (medical textiles, automobile textiles, geo-textiles, etc.). Boucle, loop and snarl yarns, shown in Fig. This explains why it has a greater bending stiffness and a lower ability to form waves. The classical ring system for production of fancy yarns includes two stages. Nub and slash yarns have the effect strand twisted around the core strand a number of times in a small area to form an enlarged bump or ‘nub’. D. shed. 1. 1 . Crepe Fabrics Crepe weave fabrics is special novelty fabrics from basic weaves may be defined as fabrics characterized by a crinkled, pebbly surface. strand that creates decorative details, knots, or loops. B. harness. Time required to get an order executed is less than weaving. Structure of spiral or corkscrew yarn. Capital investment for starting a new knitting unit is less than that required for other fabric-producing industries. Fancy yarns are also termed novelty yarns, specialty yarns, effect yarns and fashion-oriented yarns, and can incorporate deliberate ‘defects’ or variations distributed randomly or in a pre-defined order, along with colour to give visually and texturally attractive difference to the fabric. In both yarns, the effect strand is twisted around the core strand, but ratiné yarns are usually larger and wavier than gimp yarns owing to a larger effect strand. Indeed, most fancy yarns merely represent random effects introduced to the traditional yarns using simple accessories mounted on conventional spinning machinery, such as ring spinning or rotor spinning.7 The manufacturing cost that may be added as a result of using these accessories is largely counterbalanced by many other factors that can indeed result in a net cost reduction. Corkscrew, spiral, chenille, gimp, loop, snarl and boucle have all found acceptance in apparels and for the production of furnishings and upholstery. If it is desired, the fiber may also be combed which would be in addition to the carding. (Fig. Jacquie Wilson, in Handbook of Textile Design, 2001. 9.6c to 9.6j are listed in the order of their prominence if they are visualized side-by-side in a piece of fabric. In loop yarns, the effect strand is usually made of long, rigid fibers that may also be lustrous, such as mohair or wool or untwisted thick filament strand. Knitting is more flexible than weaving, i.e. Compound fancy yarns can be found in unlimited number of varieties and textures. Each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply; two single yarns twisted together would form a 2-ply yarn. Additionally, what is fancy yarn in textile? Did you scroll all this way to get facts about novelty yarn? Let's look at each of them. Novelty Yarn comes in a variety of colors and textures and add interest to a knitted garment. These fabrics are stretchable, soft and quick to recover from wrinkles, unlike, woven fabrics knitted fabrics would not become stiff or board even if you make it heavy.

basic structure of novelty yarn

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